Whisky in Edinburgh
As I sat down at my local pub (which I will reveal the name of later on in this article; no stalkers, please) the other day, I came to think of all the whisky enthusiasts who come to this beautiful city of mine hoping to enjoy our seemingly endless choice of pubs and whisky, but with no clue as to where to best do so. Many of them end up paying too much in mediocre, but central, pubs. Thus, I would like to take this opportunity to help you steer clear of the tourist traps, should you be planning a visit.
Now, most tourists will end up strolling aimlessly back and forth along the Royal Mile, which is home to a host of pubs. Nothing wrong with that, in fact a lot of the pubs there are decent, but it is a shame that some of the true gems Edinburgh has to offer remain unseen. So where should you be going? Let me introduce you to three of my favorite pubs, one to the North, one Central and one South.
Central
I’ll go ahead and start with the central one, since it will likely be closer to where you’re staying and no doubt easier to find! While there are, as I mentioned, a host of different pubs along the royal mile (my favorite of which is The Jolly Judge, so I’ll go ahead and mention that one too), I’d recommend venturing a few minutes away onto Victoria Street and a little pub called The Bow Bar. Starting right at the top of the mile, by the castle, it’s about a ten minute stroll. The Bow is a cozy little pub (not a bar, as the name would suggest, at least by my definition..) who pride themselves on offering a wide selection of whiskys at reasonable prices. They’ve also got 3-4 real ales at any one time, a couple of which will be Scottish (try Fraoch, a Heather ale, should you get a chance). Be warned though –it’s a small place, and will often get a bit crowded.
North
Should you, for some obscure reason, fancy venturing north, there are a few decent pubs along that way too. My favorite of which is the Antiquary pub on Stephen Street, about a 15 minute walk from Princes Street, or 20 from the Mile. Unlike The Bow Bar, the Antiquary offers some fairly decent pub food along with their drinks. Should you go on a Wednesday they’ve got a pub quiz on, and Thursdays will see the pub visitors entertained by live traditional music. The prices are a bit steep considering the location, but definitely affordable.
South
I’ve saved my local for last; the infamous Canny Mans in Morningside. You’ll probably want to grab a bus or taxi if you are to visit, as it’s a 30 minute walk from the center of town (though it is easy enough to find, just head south on Lothian Road off Princes Street, and follow it until it becomes Morningside Road, which happens to be the road on which you will find Cannys). A bus will set you back $2 and take about 15 minutes depending on traffic, a taxi will probably be about $12 from Princes Street and should take no more than 10 minutes.
Now, the Canny Mans has a reputation for being a bit… old fashioned, and the staff can sometimes be a bit rude (though I’ve never had any problem with them). You’re not allowed to bring cell phones (at least not switched on, a ringing phone will likely get you kicked out), cameras or laptops. Backpackers are also asked to move on. I guess you could say it’s a bit odd. The atmosphere, though, is fantastic – the ceiling and walls alike are covered with random trinkets, the lighting is a mellow yellow, and the shelves behind the main bar are packed with Whisky and fine rums. The selection of beer is half decent, and the prices are, as a whole, not bad at all; at least considering Morningside’s reputation of being a bit, well, snobby.
Without bias, if I were to recommend visiting only one pub in Edinburgh, it would be the Canny Mans. Not just because it’s my local, but because you won’t find the same atmosphere anywhere else – and I don’t just mean in Edinburgh.
So when you’re next over on a whisky tour, swing by and say hello!
March 12, 2010 @ 3:05 am
Enjoying the new blog. Nice work!
Edinburgh is a great pub town, and I agree with most of your recommendations, but Cannyman rubs me wrong.
http://drwhisky.blogspot.com/search/label/pubs
And are you going with whiskEY vs. whiskY?
March 19, 2010 @ 9:50 am
Hi, and thanks! Glad you like it. I had a wee read through your pub guide, some good choices indeed – one or two I would perhaps disagree with, but then you slagged off my favourite waterhole so I guess we’re square! I’ll be the first to admit that Cannys is, how shall I put it, odd? But so long as you don’t openly disrespect their rules, you’ll love it. As for whisky vs whiskey, I have to admit that I use them interchangeably -though I try to stick with whisky for anything Scottish, at least.